[Travel Notes #13] The Jeans the World Falls in Love With: Kojima, Okayama’s Ultimate Textile Craftsmanship

 

There is a mysterious allure to jeans. Years ago, drawn to the beautiful fading of vintage denim, I intentionally bought "Heritage denim." I’ve spent years "fading" them—letting them age and mold to my body and the way I walk. As they change expression with every wear, they become more than just clothing; they are a partner, carving out time alongside me.
Supporting this "joy of fading" is the craftsmanship of Kojima in Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture. Known as the "birthplace of Japanese jeans," it is now revered as a holy land by denim enthusiasts worldwide. The advanced cutting and sewing techniques that once flourished here for school uniforms were, after the war, poured into a single pair of jeans.
In this article, I’ll dive into the profound world of denim that captivated me, the "Big Three" brands of Kojima, and the overwhelming Japanese textile technology that supports them.

The History of Japanese Jeans: A Story of Obsession

It is a history of a great comeback—starting from a longing for American military surplus and ending with the revival of old-school techniques that the rest of the world discarded for efficiency, creating a "holy land" that surpasses even the American originals.

  1. Longing and Imitation (1940s–60s): After the war, second-hand jeans from the US military were symbols of freedom and prosperity. However, Japan lacked the technology to weave or dye heavy denim. In 1965, Maruo Clothing (now BIG JOHN) imported fabric from the US Canton Mills, taking the first step toward "Sewn in Japan."
  2. Innovation and the Invention of "Washing" (1970s): Back then, jeans were notoriously stiff and prone to shrinking. Japan developed "stone washing"—washing jeans with pumice stones to give new denim a broken-in feel. This later became a global standard.
  3. Fanatical Recreation (1980s–Present): As efficiency took over in the US and old shuttle looms began to vanish, Okayama’s artisans did the opposite. They collected discarded vintage looms from across Japan, restored them, and pursued "vintage that surpasses vintage." Their quality was so high that it led to a historic reversal: Levi’s began purchasing Japanese-made denim.

Why Japanese Weaving is Called "The Best in the World"

1. Time Travel via "Vintage Shuttle Looms"

This is why denim purists insist on "Made in Japan."

  • Embracing Deliberate Inefficiency: Modern looms weave massive amounts of uniform fabric in an hour. However, Japan still uses 1950s Toyoda Automatic Looms (like the legendary GL3), which weave at a fraction of that speed.
  • The Art of "Slub": By weaving at low speeds without putting stress on the yarn, the fabric develops an uneven texture called "slub" or zara-kan. This creates unique "honeycombs" and "whiskers" (fading patterns) found nowhere else in the world.
  • The Mark of Selvedge: The "red ear" (selvedge) edge that prevents fraying can only be produced on these vintage shuttle looms.

2. The "White Core" Dyeing Technique

Japanese dyeing isn't just about making things blue.

  • The Pinnacle of Rope Dyeing: Japan leads the world in "Shin-jiro" (white core) technology, where only the surface of the yarn is dyed with indigo, leaving a pure white core.
  • Why Leave the Core White? As the surface wears down over years of use, the white center begins to peek through, creating a beautiful blue gradation. The depth of this "Patina" is entirely different from mass-produced denim that is blue to the core.

3. Sewing the "Thick and Stiff": Next-Level Craftsmanship

  • The Barrier of Heavy Ounce: Ultra-thick denim (21oz or more) snaps regular sewing needles. Sewing this with millimeter precision into a 3D garment is a feat few countries can replicate.
  • Union Special: Artisans still maintain 1950s US military sewing machines called "Union Specials." Hems sewn with these machines develop a characteristic "twist" that is irresistible to vintage lovers.

4. Manufacturing by "Reverse Calculation"

Japanese artisans don't just make something that looks good today; they design it to be at its most beautiful years or even decades from now. They adjust the yarn twist, the number of dye dips, and the loom tension by calculating exactly how the "Patina" will look.

The Big Three Manufacturers of Kojima

1. Momotaro Jeans

  • Features: Famous for the two white "Going to Battle" lines (Japan Lines) on the back pocket. Their hallmark is the world’s deepest indigo dye.
  • Tech Point: Their rope-dyeing technique produces the world’s most beautiful "vertical fading" (tate-ochi) contrast.
  • My Perspective: Their 10-year warranty reflects the Japanese spirit of Mottainai (waste not, want not). They are tools meant to be loved for a lifetime.

2. Kojima Genes

  • Features: Named after the holy land itself. They offer incredible cost-performance for high-quality, artisan-made denim.
  • Tech Point: Their mastery of 21oz heavy-ounce denim—so thick it can practically stand up on its own—is breathtaking.
  • My Perspective: While Momotaro is a "craft piece," Kojima Genes is a "tough tool" loved by bikers and workers. For those who want to use their jeans ruggedly without hesitation, there is no better choice.

3. BIG JOHN

  • Features: The legends who birthed the first Japanese-made jeans in 1965. They are the eternal innovators.
  • Tech Point: The pioneers of "Stone Wash" and now leaders in sustainable fibers, such as 100% recycled corn denim.

Summary

Jeans were originally American workwear. Yet today, the reversal is complete: denim aficionados swear by Japan, and the original masters buy Japanese fabric. This is fueled by an obsession with vintage looms, god-tier dyeing, and otherworldly sewing skills—all driven by the soul of the artisan who creates for the future.
Buying a pair of jeans and "cultivating" your own unique fade is more than just shopping; it is a cultural experience where you share in the philosophy and time of Japanese craftsmanship. If you ever visit Kojima, Okayama, find your "partner." It will surely be the purchase you talk about most after your trip to Japan.

Thank you so much for reading.
I hope this proves useful for your travels.
See you in the next article.

#TravelNotes #JapanTravel

Comments

Post a Comment